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March-April, 2008 Archive
Vintage Flavors: A 3-Part Series
Part 1: The Return of the Green Fairy
Part 1:
The
Return of the Green Fairy At the height of its popularity, absinthe was caught in a storm of bad press and conflicting scientific findings, accused of inspiring horrific murders, as well as causing epilepsy, hallucinations and madness. Thujone, a chemical compound in wormwood, was identified as the primary cause of the drink’s reputed side effects. Ultimately, absinthe was one of the earliest victims of the growing temperance movement. The ban on absinthe started in Switzerland, and extended across the United States and Europe by 1915. Yet despite absinthe’s bad reputation, it continued to captivate the imaginations of many. In recent years the drink has been enjoying a quiet, yet steady, revival. Europe began reversing the ban on absinthe in the 1990’s, based on new scientific findings that proved that absinthe actually contains very little thujone. The United States has been slow to accept these findings, however, and in 2007 began allowing a few brands into the country. Distillers that once produced a few clandestine bottles are now able to practice their art legally. The basic recipe begins with a high-proof alcohol distilled from wormwood, anise and hyssop, with a variety of other herbs adding both flavor and color to the final liquor. A number of quality products are on the market, most of which are distilled in France and Switzerland. A few are even created in the same factories that produced absinthe over 100 years ago, using original equipment.
Much like the preparation of a proper pot of tea, the preparation of a glass of absinthe has its own ritual. A small amount of absinthe is carefully diluted, drop by drop, with the iciest water you can muster; sugar is optional. Done properly, the reward is a delicate, yet heady, aroma that fills the room while the liquid in the glass turns from pale and transparent green to a swirling, opalescent cloudiness. While nothing more than a glass and a container for water are required, a wealth of antique and reproduction accoutrements can be found. Among these are absinthe glasses marked to show the pour line for a proper “dose” of absinthe, intricately pierced spoons that are placed across the top of the glass to hold a sugar cube or two, and imposing fountains that can dispense ice water a drop at a time. A collector can also find prints of everything from paintings by Van Gogh and Degas to vintage advertisements and anti-absinthe propaganda.
For
those interested in sampling what the Green Fairy
Death in
the Afternoon
Those wishing to discover more about this
Part 2: The Old Fashioned Flavor of Violets
Violet is one of those old-fashioned flavors that
seem so te But, real violets are delicate and delicious: softly fruity and elusively floral, with just a hint of citrus. And, their flavor has been enjoyed for thousands of years. Zeus transformed his mistress into a white heifer so she could graze on violets. 15th century cookbooks included dessert recipes such as Vyolette, a violet and almond milk pudding. By the 20th century violets were found in syrups, liqueurs, marmalades, and candies, and cookbooks advised a crystallized violet as the finishing touch to your fancy dessert.
So
where did it all go wrong? The ease of
producing inexpensive artificial flavorings is one
factor. But sadly, it's the artificial violet flavor
we often find harsh and soapy. Proper violets
are also rarely found in our modern American gardens. Violets,
pansies, violas and ‘Johnny Jump Ups’ are all in the
same family but it is only the scented violet
(viola odorata) that possesses an intense
fragrance and flavor. The other flowers, often
suggested as a substitution, add beautiful color but
taste more like peas than flowers. Desserts and pastries are an excellent starting point for showing off the delicate flavor of violets, Violet can be used to flavor buttery shortbreads, pound cakes and brioches or silky pastry creams and panna cottas. It enhances fruits such as black currant, blackberry and pineapple and pairs well with the fruitiness of dark chocolate and the smoothness of vanilla. Try violet syrup in a dressing for a fruit salad, to flavor whipped cream or in icing on tiny cupcakes for tea. A glaze made from mixing violet syrup with powdered sugar turns a plain scone into a delightful teatime treat.
If violet becomes one of your favorite flavors, you might consider planting a bed of scented violets - especially if you've a garden possessing dappled shade. Violets quickly spread, are carefree, and provide an abundance of fragrant flowers that can be easily made into syrups and liqueurs or crystallized at very little expense.
The
spring 2002 issue of The Gilded Lily featured
violets and the
Blue Moon Cocktail
The quince is an unusual fruit
prized since ancient times
A ripe quince is greenish-yellow, hard and lumpy, looking somewhat like a misshapen pear or apple. Its flesh is gritty, astringent, and extremely hard. Yet leave this strange-looking fruit alone in your kitchen and it will fill the room with its delicate and exotic perfume.
Fresh quinces are a fall fruit,
usually found September-January or April-July,
depending on where the crop originated. If you
look carefully, you might find a neglected quince
tree somewhere in your neighborhood. You might also
find flowering quince bushes planted as ornamentals,
many of which produce small edible fruit suitable
for making jellies or syrups. Otherwise, try
looking in organic groceries or small markets
catering to Mediterranean or Asian communities.
Quince trees are readily available in nursery
catalogs, and some varieties fruit as early as their
first year.
Quince-Apple Tarts Cut the puff pastry into rectangles measuring roughly 1 ½” x 3”. Prick the center of each rectangle with a fork, leaving a ¼” border all around. Cut each apple into 6 wedges and slice thinly. Arrange apple slices decoratively on top of pastry. Dust well with powdered sugar. Bake at 350 F until golden brown. Heat jelly until liquid and use a pastry brush to glaze the apple pastries. Serve warm or cool. * You may use thinly sliced cooked quince, if desired.
Sources:
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mpting on the shelf, yet can be so
disappointing once in your mouth. One bite of a
soapy flavored violet candy is enough to make you
forever shy away from the taste of violets. 
Violet syrups and liqueurs can also be the focal
point in an assortment of drinks, including iced
tea, sparkling lemonade, spritzers and Italian
sodas. Crème de Violette is found in a number of
vintage cocktails, often mixed with gin or absinthe,
although some experimentation may be needed to
discover the right combination of brands to create a
pleasing beverage. For a more foolproof cocktail,
mix it with sweet champagne or use it with other
liqueurs to make fancy layered drinks.
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